Frequently Asked Questions

Our Lightscoop camera accessories work with most cameras. You’ll see a list of compatible dSLR camera brands and models on our Buy Now pages for the Lightscoop Deluxe, Lightscoop Original and, for advanced compact cameras, the Lightscoop Jr.
The Lightscoop bounces all the light from your camera’s built-in flash off a ceiling or wall, creating a larger source of light that comes from a natural direction, rather than from the middle of your forehead. The result? Beautiful indoor flash photos, every time.
To get the best results from your Lightscoop, it’s important to use the right camera settings for the Lightscoop Deluxe, Lightscoop Original or Lightscoop Jr. It takes just a few minutes. You’ll be happy you did!
The Lightscoop works best in most home and office situations – rooms with light, neutral-colored ceilings no higher than 8-12 feet or walls no farther than 3-4 feet from the camera.

If you’re not getting the results you’d like, it’s likely because the ceilings are too high or too dark, or the walls are too dark. Try moving your subjects to an area with lower, neutral-colored ceilings or next to a neutral-colored wall.

Diffusers and other gadgets simply soften the light. The light from the flash still comes directly from your forehead, and it can’t completely eliminate hot spots and shadows.

The Lightscoop bounces and spreads all of the light evenly from your camera’s built-in flash. So there’s no need to do anything to soften it – that happens automatically. With the light coming from a more natural direction now, everything in your picture will look beautiful – even the background. No hot spots or shadows.

The Lightscoop works best in rooms with light, neutral-colored ceilings no higher than 8-12 feet and walls no farther than 3-4 feet from the camera. So if you’re in a cathedral, chances are the ceilings will be too high. If you’re in a smaller, more intimate place – perfect! Shoot away!
Yes, especially well! Because the light is bounced off a wall or ceiling, it doesn’t end up in your subjects’ eyes. Consider it no-tears (and no-bark?) photography!
The Lightscoop redirects light from your built-in flash to a ceiling or wall – so there must be a surface from which it can bounce. That’s true, too, for fancy external flashes. The Lightscoop and external flashes will not bounce outside – there’s nothing for the light to bounce from.
If your aperture (f-stop) is too small (a high f-number), your picture will be under-exposed (too dark). Try opening the aperture wider, zoom the lens back to wide angle or try using a faster ISO. Some very recent cameras produce great exposures at 1600 and even 3200.

Also, make sure the ceiling isn’t too high or too dark or that the wall isn’t too dark or far away. And double-check that the camera flash exposure compensation +1 or +2 is not selected.

If you use a Nikon, use metering mode – not spot metering.

Confirm that your camera exposure mode is on manual and not an automatic setting that could slow down the shutter speed. If the shutter speed is too slow, moving subjects – or your own movement when holding the camera – can produce blurry images.
In a brightly lit room, there may be more available light than light produced by the flash. You may not need the flash at all. If you still want to use your Lightscoop, try darkening the room by turning out lights or closing curtains.
In a completely dark or very dark room, Canon models use a pre-flash from the built-in flash as a focusing aid. Because the Lightscoop deflects the pre-flash, there may not be enough light for the camera to focus. Therefore, the Canon won’t fire. Turning on some lights in the room will solve the problem.

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